- Edit (TBD)
Description
Beacon in the Night is a worthy climb up the steep South face of Wild Tower. Begin with 15 feet of steep crack climbing up a wide-ish black crack. Avoid the large flakes in the gully left, and continue up three bolts to a finger-size piece. Trend up and right through two steep crack bulges. Cautiously move up high at the first steep crack bulge due to fractured rock in crack. Exit onto a ledge system while avoiding loose rock. Set a gear anchor.
Location
It is 20 feet to right of the 5.8 pitch on
El Diablo de Oro
. This ascends a black crack with lichen and undercut feet. The plus rating is due to the steep start and physical nature of the climbing.
Protection
3 bolts plus plus a couple of 3s and a possible 4 at the start. A green/red C3 is nice at the finger crack after the bolts. Also it is nice to save a #3 BD for the final crack finish. Set a gear anchor.
Routes in Wild Tower
- 1Beacon in the Night5.9+Alpine · Trad