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Peak Mountain 3

Beacon in the Night

FA Todd Reeves & Britt Ruegger, Aug. 18, 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Beacon in the Night is a worthy climb up the steep South face of Wild Tower. Begin with 15 feet of steep crack climbing up a wide-ish black crack. Avoid the large flakes in the gully left, and continue up three bolts to a finger-size piece. Trend up and right through two steep crack bulges. Cautiously move up high at the first steep crack bulge due to fractured rock in crack. Exit onto a ledge system while avoiding loose rock. Set a gear anchor.

Location

It is 20 feet to right of the 5.8 pitch on

El Diablo de Oro

. This ascends a black crack with lichen and undercut feet. The plus rating is due to the steep start and physical nature of the climbing.

Protection

3 bolts plus plus a couple of 3s and a possible 4 at the start. A green/red C3 is nice at the finger crack after the bolts. Also it is nice to save a #3 BD for the final crack finish. Set a gear anchor.


Routes in Wild Tower


  1. 1
    Beacon in the Night
    5.9+
    Alpine · Trad