- Edit (TBD)
Crown Jewel
Description
This king line sits prominently above on storm mountain, and was bolted by Jeff Baldwin and Merrill Bitter sometime back in the early 90's (possibly the late 80's). It has some great exposure, and features awesome power endurance climbing!
According to Jeff, they struggled to figure out one of the moves. Unsure if it would go, and uninspired (or probably just more inspired to crush elsewhere), they walked away and never really went back. They put a lot of effort in to equip the line though, and it was well worth it.
At first I was doubtful about how the route might climb, but I was surprised to find that it was actually very very good. In my opinion, this is one of the best lines in BCC. It has some really rad holds, and the crux moves are powerful and precise.
Location
Far above the static wall there is a visible overhanging roof, the route climbs the gently overhanging and slightly left trending face on the right side.
To get there, my recommendation would be to climb the first pitch of the leisure route (skipping the intermediate belay), then clip the first bolt of the second pitch, and head directly up instead, placing a piece of gear before reaching the anchor at the base. This can be done in one pitch with a 70m. Jeff mentioned that they would just solo up there each time, so I guess you could also do that, probably using a variation of Reservoir Ridge to the east.
To descend, Merrill and Jeff bolted 2 rap stations climbers right of the Leisure Route that will get you down with 3 raps no problem. Or 2 raps with a 70 if you trend left to the base of Leisure after the first one.
Protection
5 bolts to chains