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Peak Mountain 3

North Ridge

FA Ray Van Aken & Art Lembeck, 1952
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

WARNING! This is a long high-alpine rock climb with a tricky descent and should not be underestimated. You need to be experienced in alpine route finding and very comfortable with exposure. THIS SHOULD NOT BE YOUR FIRST HIGH SIERRA ROCK CLIMB.

It's been quite some time since I climbed this route, so hopefully others will add details...

Mostly 4th class climbing with a couple sections of up to 5.4. A fun, easy, and accessible peak for the aspiring alpinist.

Descend to the SW down loose talus.

Some people have had difficulty finding the correct descent gully - the GPS coordinates for the top of gully are:

36.555613˚ -118.234256˚

See also comments below.

Location

From Whitney Portal (7,900'), follow the Meysan Lakes drainage (marked trail) SSW towards Little/Lower Meysan Lake (~10,000'). Lone Pine Peak will be visible to the SE.

Protection

Alpine rack.