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Peak Mountain 3

Zig Zag Sensei

FA Daniel Cardenas, Peter Nichols, and Nick Knoke - August 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route starts at a cairn on the right side of a low-angle “apron” feature, and goes up the tallest part of the wall.

P1- 5.5 - Start in one of a few left-facing slab corners. Head up, stepping right over a few overlaps and past a good hand crack. Belay below more left facing overlaps where the wall steepens. 60m

P2 - 5.9 - Climb into the steep overlaps until you can step right out on the slab (crux). After which you head back up and left to belay at a block with a crack that can be seen from the ground. 60m

P3 - 5.10+ Climb up and right through flake/overlaps. Aim left of the grass below a left facing broken corner. Step right and climb the crack in the corner (crux). Belay at the base of a dirty corner. 50m

P4 - 5.10- Traverse left, then up a left facing corner (crux). Then head up and right to a grass ledge and a bolt under a left leaning corner. 30m

P5 - 5.10- Head left walking up the pedestal ramp until you can step right onto the face. Place some small gear then make a big move up left to a horn (crux) then further left into the off-width. Follow the crack to a great ledge. 30m

P6 - 5.9 - Climb up the broken blocks on the right edge of the ledge. Traverse right. 20m

P7 - 5.9 - Traverse further right and then up crystalline granite to a good ledge. 45m

P8 - 5.9 - Head left up slanting wide crack and then straight up through an off width and past some chockstones. 45m

P9 - 5.8 - Head left up a broken ramp and then take the off-width/chimney to the top! 50m

Descent - walk off, either left down the couloir, or right down a broken ridge.

Location

This route starts at a cairn on the right side of a low-angle “apron” feature, and goes up the tallest part of the wall.

Protection

Double rack from small cams to BD camelot size 3. BD #4 and #5 are good to have, and nuts.