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Peak Mountain 3

Wardance

FA Loomis
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UPDATED 

Description

Thin, steep, wild! A memorable route that can be made mostly safe by mega-stick-clipping the first bolt, I thought that was the only really dangerous part.

Some thin and sustained moves lead to and past the first bolt to a roof and the second bolt. Some big holds lead up and left, through some gear placements and then to a couple more bolts. A seriously crazy mantle into a hole will be required that is well protected. Higher, some steep and easy, though unprotected pockets will lead to an anchor.

Location

On the upper bench, a faint dike leads to a scooped out roof.

Protection

Bolts and a couple finger-sized pieces. Tricams to protect the holes at the top, if desired.