Afterburner

Afterburner breaches the left side of SCW linking features of weakness between the cracks. The route climbs the giant roof we have all stared at for years. There are 6 new pitches with the 7th pitch taking the final corner of Galaxy. The route requires all your climbing tricks from slab climbing to physical roof wrestling.

Approach:  Approach as for Orbit. Stop at the pedestal before the leftward 4th class slab moves to the large ledge with the tree that often has tat. Look for a bolt on the slab signaling the start of the route. Belay here for P1.

Pitch 1- 70m 5.10  Climb up the slab to the first bolt. Follow features of weakness between bolts and intermittent pro diving right around an arete and then up into a corner with a thin crack. Climb up and past the welded blocks clipping a bolt and up onto the jungley ledge. Belay on the right side of the ledge in the corner crack behind the massive block.

Pitch 2- 40m 5.11 Start up the left-facing corner crack. Stand atop the ledge and notice the giant rockfall scar taller than you. Climb the sealed corner crack with help from holds on the arete (1b). Surmount the roof (1b) and climb the finger crack. Follow the flake up and left to the arete and a bolt. Climb the arete passing 2 bolts and climb right into the corner overlaps. Climb straight up the corners clipping a bolt then make a long reach and traverse right on the flake. Transition to the awkward layback crack with small gear until the crack widens into hand size and there is a  horizontal crack to your left. Belay here.

Pitch 3- 30m 5.9 Follow the crack up to a bush and follow the short, left-leaning crack then continue up and rightwards on rails and dikes into a broken corner system climbing up onto a major ledge. Climb the dikes on the slab up and right to the clean wall and the anchor bolts.

Pitch 4- 20m 5.11 Follow the bolts (6) up the impeccable rock through fun sequences with small slippery holds. Mantle up onto the “Moonwalk” ledge and walk right to the anchor.

Pitch 5- 50m 5.11 “Jimmy’s Roof” Climb up the face past 3 bolts. Place your gear as far out in the solid tips crack under the roof as possible. (*Note that the jug rail under the roof, hand crack through the roof, and horizontal jug rail formed by roof block are not suitable for pro! There are other gear opportunities available at the lip.) Crank through the airy roof and transition to the leftward under-cling traverse. Clip the bolt above your head and go all out for the "jug". At the second bolt do not go immediately right, continue straight up eventually gaining a right-leaning offset seam and finger crack. When the finger crack seals shut directly below the bulge with a horizontal, go straight up this bulge on sloping holds. Follow good features up to the left side of the diving board ledge. Belay off-hand size pieces behind the block.

Pitch 6- 30m 5.8 From the belay climb the rail up and left and then step over the belay on chicken-heads. Clip the bolt and then tackle the roof. A long pitch of chicken-heads takes you on a rightward and mostly unprotected journey to the base of the Galaxy corner. Belay on anchor bolts.

Pitch 7- 30m 5.9 This is the last pitch of the Galaxy route. Climb the right-facing corner passing a couple of chock-stones. Exit the corner and climb the chicken heads towards the tree on top of the wall.

One can logically link Pitch 6 and 7.

Right of Orbit and the MJD and left of Hyperspace. Approach as for Orbit, look for a bolt on a slab just before moving left to a big ledge with a tree.

Gear - Doubles .2 to 2”, Wires, ~12-14 draws. 70m rope.