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Peak Mountain 3

Chuck Wagon Crack

FA Alan Bartlett, Mike Wilson and Sam Waggoner, 1990
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I've led this route a number of times. The first pitch is around seven and a cruise. The second pitch is problematic. Small wires get you going (5.9). The problem is the crack above. I've never been able to set satisfactory pro in the lower section of the crack. Once, after climbing it, I rapped down and spent about fifteen minutes trying to solve the problem; I failed. A fall when moving up the crack (5.8) will be a serious challenge for those lower wires. A fall here could result in never experiencing a fall again.

Protection

Standard rack, be sure to have small wires along.

From the top of the first pitch part, you can move about 8 feet left to a new anchor with rings atop Honky Justice (there as of late 2018).

Rap to ground from there.