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Peak Mountain 3

Bioluminescence

FA Derek & Giselle Field (2018)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is moderate the whole way and achieves an unexpectedly awesome position high on the formation. It is named for the prevalence of brilliant green lichen.

Pitch 1 (5.9+, 200 feet):

Burl up the mega right-leaning offwidth corner/arch to a ledge belay. Ditch your 5-6" cams here - they aren't necessary for the rest of the route.

P1 variation (5.9+ R, 200 feet):

Climb the thinner "daughter" arch 20 feet right of the big corner/arch, busting over the roof at a small bush and inching up discontinuous cracks on very poor pro. We toproped this variation, and though it is dirty and totally runout, starting your ascent this way would allow you to leave your two biggest cams at home. We preferred the big corner. YMMV

Pitch 2 (5.4, 100 feet):

Ramble up the corner system past a few ledges and trivial roofs to a gear/tree belay.

Pitch 3 (5.7, 150 feet):

The Fake-out Dihedral. Slab climb directly up toward the wide right-leaning dihedral where you will discover an amazing feature that allows you to bypass the nasty wideness. Gear/tree belay.

Pitch 4 (5.7, 180 feet):

Climb overlapping right-facing dihedrals to a big ledge, then scramble up toward the main corner system and belay from the two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 5 (5.8, 170 feet):

Head directly up the prominent right-facing corner on handcracks, passing a flared offwidth pod. Finish by transitioning left to a two-bolt belay (keep your eyes peeled for it) on a ledge 10 feet left of a small tree on the inside corner.

Pitch 6 (5.8, 100 feet):

Jam the splitter hands, swing around the obtrusive tree on its left side, and continue jamming up the corner to a two-bolt belay on the airy arete.

Pitch 7 (5.7, 100 feet):

Climb a series of amazing parallel cracks, sorta choosing your own adventure while keeping in mind to stay as close to the arete as possible. Belay from a two-bolt anchor on a major pedestal.

Pitch 8 (5.8, 200 feet):

A full-value pitch of hero climbing at a moderate grade. Launch off the pedestal directly up the arete, passing a massive spike via the nice handcrack 10 feet to its right. The handcrack becomes a "mummy crack" and then eases off into low-angle triple cracks hugging the right side of the arete. Immediately below an ugly V-slot, swing left along a wild zigzag handcrack onto the true arete. Continue up the arete on triple cracks and belay from a two-bolt anchor on the next major pedestal on the ridge.

Pitch 9 (5.7, 200 feet):

Continue up cracks on the right side of the arete, again sticking as close to the edge as possible, finishing at a two-bolt belay where the slab rolls over at the top.

Rappel

the route with two 60m ropes. Almost all of the raps are a full 200 feet.

Rap P9 from two-bolt anchor.

Rap P8 from two-bolt anchor.

Rap P7+6 from two-bolt anchor.

Rap P5 from two-bolt anchor.

Rap P4 from two-bolt anchor.

Rap P3+2 from tree.

Rap P1 from tree.

Location

See photos.

Bioluminescence

starts in a very obvious right-facing offwidth corner/arch on the right side of Tuttle Slab.

Protection

Double set of cams to 3"

One each 4-6" cams (for 1st pitch only) - leave the 5-6" cams at the top of P1