- Edit (TBD)
Green Mile Direct
Description
Brilliant! Packs a punch all the way to the end. Start on the right side of a crack and slap through the roof, heading right with big spans and lots of tension (the left side of the crack is off.) Match the decent edges over the lip, then head back left on a crimp rail to reach a rounded jug. Pull sloping edges through the upper bulge to stand on the rounded jug. Walk it out (carefully - the hillside above is steep and slippery.)
(As noted in the comments, this problem may be climbed more directly and with less difficulty, using left hand slopers just right of the crack. Makes sense, but I don't think it's as fun. Do what makes you happy.)
Alternately, from the far right side of the roof, do the somewhat easier finish straight up from the matched edges, following the crack feature instead of cutting back left ("The Green Mile"), or start low at the right corner of the feature and do a couple hard moves or a tricky dyno to reach a good sloper and join either finish.
Location
Down the canyon between the Trailer Park and Dope Lounge areas, on the right side, look for the radical chalk-covered feature.
Protection
Pads (a few are sure nice) and spotters
Routes in Donkey Punch Area
- 20Green Mile DirectV8-9Bouldering