- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a very fine line with very fine holds. The holds are tiny and one hold in the twenty foot crux actually points down. The rest are all side pulls, gastones, and laybacks. Two optional starts; left is easier but chossy and right is a fun crack, both merging at about 12' high. The crux climbs much steeper than it looks and contains several unforgettable sequences including a double gaston traverse, wild high stepping, and a delicate lieback sequence. After the crux is a good shake out stance before finishing up with big reaches between large pinches on the overhanging prow.
The sequences are technical and require much attention to your body english. After I unlocked the sequence a few years ago, and repeated it a few times, I still think it is one of the best 5.12 crimpfests in our area!
Anchor at the upper tree above Mussels For Bones with a short static line with a masterpoint redirected around some shrubbery, aiming for as far south as you can get it. It is easiest to
rap down the static, then pass the knot and rap down the TR line to make sure it's redirected nicely.
Location
"Easy looking slab" 50' right of Doozy. Approach the anchor as for Doozy, but continue 50' south to the tree anchor.
Protection
Tree anchor with 20' of static line.