The Big Nasty

This beautifully prominent and open arete was certainly not always so. Until just a few years ago, it was completely covered by brier thickets and small trees and the amount of rock that came off to make this climb safe was an intense half days work as evidenced by the rockfall around the base of the cliff. But this is a nice addition and one fun stretch of climbing; so just be mindful and the belayer should try and stay off to the right.

If 5.8 is your limit then this route might not be for you if you're shaky at the grade. Ascend the short jagged dihedral on the far right side of the Upper Wall to get to the base of the primary dihedral body. While it does not initially seem imposing, you will soon find yourself stemming, side pulling and palming while looking for your next piece of gear asap. Enjoy the fairly long main dihedral and follow it slightly right at the top and around the corner to anchors.   You can top out to a second set of anchors for a few extra feet but lower back down to utilize the lip anchors for lowering or TR or else the rope drag will be unbearable.

Prominent arete on the right of the Upper Wall.

Traditional. Definitely need some micro cams and a full selection of regular cams but not much above 3" necessary. Nuts could be useful but not mandatory.