West Overhang

Ex-climbing partners must be a little like ex-lovers that still conjure up the most indelible memories of all. My one and only tour through the West Overhang was taken in 1985 with the same gutsy athlete who would shortly drop the figure eight with which he was rappeling - while on rappel below the roof of

Art's Spar

. I chased the crux pitch and to this day cannot recount a single serviceable piece of gear that was used by my partner. It was, in hind-sight, probably a good thing that I led the approach pitch since we had in, at least, a good belay. Panic, harnessed to good luck and a strong body can indeed work wonders.

The West Overhang of the Maiden must rank as one of the all time classic routes in the pantheon of great Boulder climbs. Hike to the West end of the Maiden. Boulder up the short slab and walk down to the Crow's Nest. We felt it best to do the West Overhang in two pitches, although strictly speaking, this is not necessary. Pitch 1 is a 50 ft thin crack that goes at 5.8/5.9 and will stitch up with mid size and small wires. Belay below the roof in a minimal stance. This will protect with several mid to small Friends. Pitch two can be done at 5.11d by cutting right at the belay. The original free line, which we took, heads straight up at 5.8 and then traverses horrizontally for 15 ft to a slot that will gain the top. This is a very airy piece of 5.11 with nothing but clean air below your butt, and while it could suck up several larger Friends or even hexes, not one of my partners wired stoppers was still in place when I got to the slot. Descend via a double rope rappel to the Crow's Nest in what Erickson describes as the airest and most unusual rappel on the most famous pinnacle in the Boulder area. A second rappel to the South will complete the journey. Both raps are over 100 ft in length.

A full range of wired stoppers and several small to medium camming units are sufficient. Double ropes are mandatory for rapping to the ground.