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Peak Mountain 3

Banzai

FA Rusty Baillie
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Description

This is a two-pitch slab route, completely bolted, with bolted anchors. The route unnaturally trends left and then back right, and then back left - I'm not sure what the first ascentionist was thinking, except to try to keep the climbing over on the steeper left side of the slab, rather than following the natural line straight up into the lower angled slab.

It's still a fun slab to climb - easy. Good for first leads and first multi-pitch climbs, or to work on your multi-pitch transition skills. A good solo for those who like such a thing.

Pitch 1: Locate the first line of bolts right of the gully that splits Waves Of Rock into two slabs. Follow this line of bolts up to a two-bolt anchor at about 60', and then continue left to a second two-bolt anchor (160' or so).

Pitch 2: Climb up for a couple of bolts and then trend left and up for many bolts, then back right to the ledge/overlap (possible gear belay station). Pull the overlap, then trend left again and back right/up to the final anchor(chains) (170' or so).

Location

Descent: Walk down the right side (climber's view) of the slab - 2nd, easy 3rd class.

Protection

Bolts. Two bolt anchors. Bring slings to reduce the drag of all the wandering. I forget how many bolts there were - bring 10-12 draws/alpine draws.