Pteradon

OK, so there is some loose rock on this one. It's not scary, just a lot of exfoliation flakes that need some traffic to clean up. If you willing to brave it though, you will be rewarded with 450' of splitter (mostly) hand cracks from the bottom to the top of the feature!

P1, 5.9, 160'- Blocky climbing off the ground gets you up to a solid flake with a nice hand crack behind it. Follow this into the main corner, then veer left and climb a nice (but flaky) hand crack to a nice ledge. There is a fixed station to the right, but it looked awkward to move to it for the first belay. Seemed better to just build our own station.

P2, 5.10+, 100'- Continue up the clean 3" crack until it's end. A reachy 5.9 traverse gets you into the main corner. Clip a bolt, then continue up steep, clean hand jams and lay backs to the two bolt station.

P3, 5.10, 110'- Continue up the corner. Build an anchor where the wide crack on the left face and the corner crack begin to diverge.

P4, 5.10+?, 90'- Continue up the corner crack. Looks like it goes at 10+, but we started to get stormed on, so I led an alternate pitch in the next corner to the right (see Alt 2 desc.)

P4, Alt. 1, 5.10?, 105'- Climb the ever widening crack from 5"-12+". You may need to downclimb to the top of the slung block rap to rap the route.

P4, Alt 2, 5.8- An airy traverse right into the next corner system leads to a big ledge. Climb a 5.8 corner crack into a chimney, then climb 4th and low 5th back left to the slung block rappel.

This is on the furthest right feature of the Ruby wall. The wall is hidden from Ruby Lake, but is obvious as you get closer to the main Ruby Peak. It is made up of four large, left-facing dihedrals. As per the Secor guide, this is the outside corner of the furthest left dihedral. For clarification, it IS NOT the main corner of the last dihedral, but the furthest left set of corners. See the included picture from the base. There is a large, perfectly square cut roof that is useful for identifying the route, but is not actually part of the route itself.

Descent is by double rope rappels. A slung block at the very top of the main corner crack serves as the first station. Careful here, I managed to coreshot the anchor cord the first time I weighted it. A long (195') rappel to the P2 bolt station. From here, we were able to skip the first station and go right to the ground on a rope-stretcher with a little leftward traversing.

Alternatively, the original descent was via the large gully to the right. However, this requires a double rope rappel at some point too.

Nuts, 1 set

Cams, 1 ea .5-1", 2 ea 1"-4", 1 ea 5"+ (Big gear especially useful if doing the OW finish)