- Edit (TBD)
Weight Weighed - ( 2nd pitch variation to Ganger-Munger )
Description
Great two-pitch trad climb. No bolts. Fun movement on clean rock. 70M rope recommended for descent
Pitch 1 is an old 5.10+ route is listed in Renny's book on page 67. Alternatively, in the Wes Gooch guidebook, it's called Ganger-Munger 5.10D. This variation splits off right after the P1 anchor, tackling a steep roof, then an upper corner that is clean, albeit short, splitter crack climbing.
Start -> 25 feet left of Tolle Route
( Pitch 1 ) -> Climb Ganger-Munger P1 5.10. Climb the obvious weakness around the left side of a bulge to gain the two parallel cracks. Climb the leftmost crack until you get into the white rock below the roof. Build a gear anchor below the roof.
( Pitch 2 ) -> Climb up to the roof above and eventually fade right through a blocky bulge via a series of stems and laybacks. Gain a 35 foot left facing clean corner with splitter hands to a ledge. Look for bolts with rings on the ledge.
Descent -> Walk across the ledge (West or lookers left) to gain bolted anchors on the top of Boxcar Arete. 3 raps from here gets you to the ground w 70M
Location
25 feet left of the Tolle Route (Guides Route) dihedral out on the clean face.
Protection
Standard trad rack to 3". Save #1 Camalot sized for anchor after (P1)
Routes in (a) West Sector
- 17Weight Weighed - ( 2nd pitch variation to Ganger-Munger )5.10Alpine · Trad