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Peak Mountain 3

Weight Weighed - ( 2nd pitch variation to Ganger-Munger )

FA: "Pitch 1 Ganger-Munger 50.10+" /// Cleaning, gardening FA Pitch 2 - Andy Bardon, Wade Spiner, May 2018
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Description

Great two-pitch trad climb. No bolts.  Fun movement on clean rock.  70M rope recommended for descent

Pitch 1 is an old 5.10+ route is listed in Renny's book on page 67. Alternatively, in the Wes Gooch guidebook, it's called Ganger-Munger 5.10D. This variation splits off right after the P1 anchor, tackling a steep roof, then an upper corner that is clean, albeit short, splitter crack climbing.

Start ->  25 feet left of Tolle Route

( Pitch 1 ) -> Climb Ganger-Munger P1 5.10. Climb the obvious weakness around the left side of a bulge to gain the two parallel cracks. Climb the leftmost crack until you get into the white rock below the roof. Build a gear anchor below the roof.

( Pitch 2 ) -> Climb up to the roof above and eventually fade right through a blocky bulge via a series of stems and laybacks. Gain a 35 foot left facing clean corner with splitter hands to a ledge. Look for bolts with rings on the ledge.

Descent -> Walk across the ledge (West or lookers left) to gain bolted anchors on the top of Boxcar Arete.  3 raps from here gets you to the ground w 70M

Location

25 feet left of the Tolle Route (Guides Route) dihedral out on the clean face.

Protection

Standard trad rack to 3". Save #1 Camalot sized for anchor after (P1)