Desperados Under the Eaves

I’m giving this more stars than it probably deserves, but it’s a long, improbably all-gear line, with exciting face climbing, and a 3-dimensional crux, so I thought it was pretty alright. It probably straddles the line between PG and R, given the bouldery start and the nature of a couple runouts.The start boulders up on clean, gray, rock and makes a challenging move left onto darker, dirtier rock where there’s a few cracks for gear in a scoop. Slabby moves pass a couple thoughtful gear placements and a noteworthy, but easy runout to an excellent stance at the bottom of the wide crack.Starting the route on Solidarity and following the crack to this point would be a better protected, but harder and less direct variation.Using whatever trickery you can, make it into the bottom of the stem box, with good gear in its peripheries. Exit the stembox right on good holds to another excellent stance.Finally, step left to a micro cam placement, and climb the exposed face on positive edges to more horizontal pro. The climb ends on a ledge seven feet right of the Smash the Patriarchy anchor.

In between Smash the Patriarchy and Solidarity, aiming for the obvious wide crack dihedral and stem box overhang above. 

Single rack with micro cams and nuts to 4” or 5” should be sufficient.