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Peak Mountain 3

Smitty's Roof

FA Chris Smith, early '90s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Per Al Rubin: this was originally climbed as a mixed route by Chris Smith in the '90s and subsequently chopped by You Know Who--actually it was one of the last routes to be chopped. It subsequently became over-grown and neglected until recently being rehabilitated as a sport route in spring of 2020.Scamper up some low quality rock for two bolts. Get established under the roof, and make a long reach to a jug over the lip. Lock off, and clip a bolt before engaging in some strenuous and gymnastic moves on good holds. Once over the lip, breath and relax, while collecting yourself clip a bolt, and contemplate the crux sequence while trying to find the holds. The slab holds the real crux and feels exposed while being safely protected. After a short section of climbing that is harder that it feels like it should be, you can relax. Clip one more bolt before the anchor. Some chalk on this one really helps as the upper crux section tends to attract pine needles. This has superb rock quality on the upper section.

Location

It ascends a small roof to the right of Tunnel Vision with an obvious corner above.

Protection

7 bolts to loweroffs.