Left of Lloyd's

This short power problem is THE classic hard route at Taylors Falls, along with the Cave Traverse. Stand start at a good left hand gaston edge, and a right undercling, with glassy feet. A thin undercling leads to a difficult deadpoint into a three finger pod, and a big move up right to a sloper. A good, thin foothold recently broke on this climb, making the deadpoint move more difficult, but appears still do-able. The old grade was V11, the new grade is yet to be determined. Expect it to be V11-V12. Few repeats to date.

In the Boneyards, start to the right of the pine tree; left hand gaston crimp, right hand undercling crimp.

Two or three pads.