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Peak Mountain 3

Northeast Buttress

FA Fred Becky, Rick Nolting 1981
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start where the dark rock meets light rock. Scramble up a 3rd class ramp to a big ledge. Follow grey rock up and left following a ramp  until the rock changed to a white granite near the edge of the arete. Belay at a good stance. Head up and right for a nice pitch to a ledge and belay at a pine tree. Move the belay to the right via 3rd class directly bellow a buttress that climbs a weakness between the two towers. Another nice pitch. Another enjoyable pitch up the left side of the second tower brings you to its top. Follow the path of least resistance across ribs into and out of different gullies eventually going up a giant gash to its top. Once at a large notch exit right on a crack and climb up and right till difficulties end with mostly 3rd to the final summit ridge.

Descend to the west down 3rs class and return down to the valley on the north side. Keep and eye out for some cool geology.

Location

Hike up to the hanging valley on the north side of Flatiron Butte. Follow scree up to where dark rock meets grey rock.

Protection

Pro to 3”


Routes in Flatiron Butte (Shangri La)