- Edit (TBD)
Description
Climb the huge left-facing corner right of Laser Crack... After 23 years, I finally returned to add the 3rd and 4th pitches to this monster of a climb in the fall of 2020.
Pitch 1- Climb the left-facing corner with the wedged, varnished blocks and up to the big ledge.(5.10a-90') A few #4 camalots suggested.
Pitch 2- Climb up the grand dihedral above past a tricky thin red #1 camalots section.(5.10c) Then up the long section of perfect hands.(5.10+) Then the crack thins to 5.11... 1 original drilled baby angle marks the old anchor,,, either free the move leftward or tension traverse(A0) into the wide crack out left to a lieback finish(#4.5 or #5 camalot) up to the new anchor w/chains at a stance.(120') 3-#1's 5-#2's few-#3's few#4's 1-#5 and doubles in the thinner sizes
Pitch 3- Thrutch up into the overhanging squeeze slot above.(5.11+) Inverted leg jams and then some face edges bring you into the massive, slightly lesser angle corner above. Numerous offwidth sections and a few thin sections(nuts suggested) make this an adventurous 110' pitch! Final moves is a tight crack in the corner(5.10++) up to the beautiful 1 foot wide belay ledge that leads left out of the corner with a 2-bolt anchor with chains 10' left of the Dihedral. Full rack plus 3-#4's 2-#5's 2-#6's maybe 1-#7 and some smaller nuts.
Pitch 4- Step further left from the anchor into a stunning 5.11 finger crack for 35 feet!(5-yellow size 4-blue size(Metolius) This splitter brings you up into the apex of the Titanic Corner culminating with and overhanging chimney slot(1 bolt!) with some jugs and stemming to get you through. Some very soft rock exists above the bolt,,, choose the holds wisely. Traverse leftward 15' on an edgy slab to gain good gear. Step up and left to some thin ramping corners then up to a no-hands stance below the STING-IN-THE-TAIL finishing corner above. Arching yellow #2 camalots quickly turn wide in the finishing corner above. Some gracious face holds help here! A #5 and #6 camalot(maybe #7) greatly help here for the final 15 feet to the 2-bolt anchor with chains.(90')
Protection
A Huge Desert Rack(see pitch descriptions)
Routes in Rim Routes
- 3Titanic Corner5.11+Trad · Aid