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Peak Mountain 3

Central Pillar of Envy

FA Chad Suchoski
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This "adventure" route starts in the gully between Defector and Warcraft. This route is has amazing position. Unfortunately (IMO) this mixed climb will wallow in obscurity due to the need to use pro down low where the rock quality is questionable. The gear may hold but I would consider it mostly psychological.

P1-5.5: Start up the mossy and chossy 3rd class gully, then traverse left at the top to an anchor. The final moves are the 5.5 while the lower gully is mostly 4th Class Moss/Choss.

P2-5.7: Traverse right from the belay towards the obvious corner and fire up using mostly gear. Top out and traverse right and up to the base of the huge dihedral above.

P3-5.11a: Take the overhanging moss/gritty crack following bolts and possible intermediate gear placements to the top of the cliff. Use the small

scrub oak over the rim for your anchor.

Location

Obvious gully leading to steep crack on left side of the huge pillar above the Shock Block.

Protection

Bring gear to 3" for

P1 and P2.