- Edit (TBD)
Description
Awesome, juggy climbing with occasional slopers. The big block on the right draws your eye but is a dead end. Get creative, look the other way and find the hidden jugs that keep the crux bunchy but mellow. Slightly steeper version of Five Second Rule that eases up after the first bulge and comes back again near the end.
Location
25 feet left of the Raw and The Cooked. Several options for starting this. The one with the bolt seems around 9+. 10' left of the bolt there is a zig-zag looking crack that starts around .8 for a few feet, then pulls a really fun bulge at about .9 and with all gear.
Protection
Awesome gear with bolts where you need them. You could place a piece every 4 feet for much, but not all of this route, so use them when you get them.
2 bolts supplemented with doubles from blue TCU to .75 camalot with a single #3 camalot.
(Don't remember placing a #1 or 2 so correct me if I'm wrong.) You could use three .5 camalots but can get away with only 1.