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Peak Mountain 3

Chastity Belt

FA Paul Bernard & Addison Cory
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is located directly opposite of Spread Eagle. It is near the entrance to the cave routes, located on the left side pillar.

This route was a TR route for many years, but was difficult to access. It was bolted and led in 2012 with expansion bolts in poor quality limestone, giving it a bad reputation as dirty and dangerous. After two solid seasons with minimal rain and heavy use from the locals, it has cleaned up quite nice and now it has new glue ins to make it that much more safe.

Start on the right side arete and trend toward the left to reach the large owl hole, then go straight up for a more challenging climb. You can cheat around the left side arête to the anchors if you start to sketch for a .10a finish . The direct adds a letter grade or two for a 5.10b/c

Location

Opposite of Spread Eagle

Protection

5 new "2015" Fixe stainless steel 1/2" X 6" glue-ins with A7 glue thanks to Dan H.

2 open cold shuts with a 3rd bolt between them with a delta link for a backup on the lower off.