- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is a one-pitch alternative to the second (crux) pitch of the Original Route. It's... exciting. It might be the easiest way to summit the Bobcat, and its surely the scrappiest. There's a good steep section followed by a rotten section that is thankfully not as steep.
Pitch 1 (5.10, 100 feet): As for the Original Route.
Pitch 2 (5.10, 90 feet): Step down and left out of the belay alcove and follow the ramp left past a single bolt. From the ledge, head straight up the crack system with burly jamming on a steep diagonal. When the crack pinches down (thankfully just past the crux), choose to either (1) step left and up into a solid 5" offwidth (big cam required) or (2) layback straight up into... surprise! ...a hidden choss stash. The straight-up option is tempting but we recommend to step left. Eventually, both difficulty and rock quality decline until a short gully scramble brings you to the two-bolt anchor.
Scramble up exposed 3rd class ledges to the summit stack. A belay is not really needed, but you will need to bring the rope up there anyway, for the rappels. If, for whatever reason, you are not continuing on to the summit, simply traverse 30 feet right to the top of the Original Route's second pitch (the rappel line) and head down.
Descent: From the summit, walk southeast off the summit stack and scramble 20 feet down into the chimney where you will find a two-bolt anchor that marks the top of the Original Route. Rappel the original route (3 raps with a 60m rope).IMPORTANT: When rapping P2, in order to keep your rope from getting pinched in the roof, you must clip both strands into the fixed biner on the bolt at the lip of the roof as you rap past it.
Location
Cat Caught Your Tongue starts on the first pitch of the Original Route and then traverses left to an alternate crack system.
Protection
Double rack to 3" + one 4" camoptional 5" cam (see route description)
Routes in Bobcat Spire
- 2Cat Caught Your Tongue5.10Trad