Warrior 1.1

This route provides four very fun pitches that access the major dihedral that is the primary feature of Warrior 1 as seen from the meadow. These pitches have most likely been climbed in some fashion because we found a few pieces of antique fixed gear above P1, but we could find no record of an aid or free ascent and P3 had not been cleaned of dirt for placements. It's left marked as an FA so folks won't expect to see an established route in the guides, but it's really just a major variation of the NW Buttress (hence the rather unimaginative name). If it were climbed a few more times, some of the the loose rock cleaned from P2, and some dirt cleaned from the P3 dihedral (the leader should take a nut tool), it would likely be a classic. Every pitch has fun and engaging climbing and the rock is generally good with the exception of some of the looseness expected on an untraveled line. The route finding is straight forward. We could not clean much on P2 because a party of four was hanging out at the base of the snow field above the lake spectating for an hour, oblivious to the rain of dirt and small rocks hitting the snow. It will be best climbed during warm, dry conditions given that it is on the north side.

P1-180ft, 5.10. This is the trickiest and probably hardest pitch of the route. Step down and right from the start ledge, then go straight up heading for the dark groove. There is a short slab crux about 70 feet up. Protect high, move right across the slab to a shallow rail (no gear in the rail) and a flake with orange lichen on the right wall that takes a good #3. See beta photo. It may be PG13 crossing the slab to the flake, though not really hair-raising because the moves to the flake are easy. Continue to an excellent ledge.

P2-175ft, 5.10. Climb broken cracks to the overhung corner, watching carefully for loose rock. Belay just above corner at a stance in the beautiful dihedral. A pillar (4ft tall) at about half way up the pitch needs to be trundled but can be avoided.

P3-200ft, 5.10. A long and elegant but mossy corner ends at a belay on a grassy ledge. Leader should take a nut tool to clean placements.

P4-190ft, 5.10. Climb the 30 foot 5 inch crack on the far left end of the ledge, then climb easy cracks to a stance. Don't go up either of the two large ear-like features to the right.

Join NW buttress route.

P5-190ft, 5.8. Climb the cleanest of the low angle cracks aiming for the base of the main dihedral feature on Warrior. Belay at base of the mega dihedral.

P5-200ft, 5.10. Climb the mega dihedral and belay on a ledge above the little roof.

P6-170ft. 5.9, Mega dihedral second pitch. Belay on a large ledge 50 feet from the top of the dihedral.

P7-120ft. 5.9. Chimney through hole and take a finger/hand crack to summit.

Walk to the east side of the formation on a ridge (5.0).

Descent. Rap NE face route with two ropes.

Climbers: Josh Smith, Aaron Miller, New Mexico.

Start below the obvious overhung dihedral (look up 250 feet) on the north face of Warrior 1, about 100 feet below the Candy Shop offwidth. There is a good ledge to stand on for the belayer. See photo.

Doubles to #3, 1-#4 and 1-#5, nuts., 10-12 slings for the long pitches.