Angle of Repose

This spectacular route starts just left of the end of the first pitch of

Left Side

(page 115, route 17 in Rossiter's guide) on the Wall of Winter Warmth. Access the start by climbing the first pitch of Left Side or hike down a steep gully from the top of the rock just above the Berlin Wall. A new two-bolt anchor has been placed at the start for a better and safer belay.

Pitch 1: Follow a line of bolts up a steep wall. The first moves off the ground are the crux (lunge) and lead to steep, continuous climbing up past a "tooth" to good holds and the end of the first pitch.

Pitch 2: The repose pitch! Climb up on good holds to a small overlap. Crank past the overlap making technical moves into a shallow corner. Stem up the corner moving left on extremely thin holds (crux) into another shallow corner. Make hard layback moves up into a shallow corner over a steep section that leads to a good rest. Follow bolts up to the anchors on great holds with spectacular exposure to the anchor.

Rap the route to the ground. This is a great climb in a beautiful position high above Boulder Creek. I think it is one of the best sport climbs in Boulder Canyon.

Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor for the first pitch. Twelve bolts to a two-bolt anchor for the second pitch. Carrying twenty-two quickdraws if you do the route in one-pitch.