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Peak Mountain 3

Kidney Stone

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Description

This is a good but lonely little climb that wants to be taken seriously: It would like more attention, but at the same time it wants you to know that it is best enjoyed by big girls and boys.Contrary to the description in the Handren guide, it is neither one pitch, nor should it be considered a sport climb.P1 (90’, 11-): Launch up a right-leaning seam (some small cams/stoppers protect) to gain a ledge that allows you to traverse rightwards over a forest of scrub oak and reach the first of 7 bolts. Climb with increasing difficulty to an anchor on a small ledge.P2 (70’, 11+): Clip the first bolt and execute a very committing move. I hope you've been practicing your pistol squats. Tricky and thin climbing with micro-routefinding challenges leads rightwards and then up again to a very difficult clip (maybe it is better to climb to a hold first?). Pull through a big hueco and continue up a long easy runout to another anchor.Could you keep going? Maybe!

Location

Left of Arch Rival and the obvious flake of Corn Flake, look for hard-to-spot black bolt hangers up a narrow panel of nice varnish.

Protection

7x Draws, 2x Slings, 0.2-0.4 Flexi-Cammers, 60m rope.