Over The Sea

This relatively new route is a powerful and technical 5.12 route just left of the classic 5.11 "

Close To The Edge

". It would be wise to stickclip the first bolt and anchor your belayer or you may find yourself in or your belayer stuck over "the sea" as I did. The initial overhang starts the 5.12 climbing at the second bolt with some steep sidepulling to turn the roof, a tough clip, then a powerful sequence with two pairs of crimps that are quite far apart. Make a difficult clip and a few more hard moves up the arete to reach a rest between bolt 4 and 5. Make a tricky mantel move, then finish on easier but engaging climbing to the anchor.

It is just around the corner and first route to the left of "

Close To The Edge

". Marcus told me that there is another sport route he established that traverses further left and is about 12c.

Currently, there are four permadraws to start the route, but you will need three more draws to reach the lowering hook anchor. I met Marcus the day I climbed this, and he said he will be adding more permadraws to complete it soon. Please update this as those are added!