Pigeon Roof

This route climbs the big crack on the east face of Minor Mass. From below the roof looks imposing, but it is surprisingly easy. Above the roof ... is the crux!

An initial, scrambling start on the left (west) side of the lower wall takes you to the big ledge system that runs under the upper face, from the saddle on the left to the gully on the right.

A few strenuous moves in the dihedral get you established on the wall. At the overhang, keep your eyes peeled for holds beside the crack.

Once past the overhang, a combination of arm bars and tiny face holds allow you to progress further.

A standard rack to three inches will have you diving deep in the upper crack, desperately searching for nut placements. That works, but you'll be happier with a 5" or even 6" piece!

There are a couple of ancient pitons on and near this route - don't trust them, please.