We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Stardust

FA Ian Harris, Erik Lehnhoff and Forrest Wilcox, December 12, 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb up the obvious cracks which begin a bit left of the original (traverse) start of Astroglide. Follow cracks, slab, and more crack, finishing at the Astroglide anchors. Pitch 0  If you want to belay in the sun: starting at the beginning of Astroglide, gain the vegetated ledge. This mini-pitch can be soloed, but a fall would be bad. Belay at the base of the cracks. If you want to belay in the shade: belay from the ground.Pitch 1 (20 meters; 5.8)  Choose your crack and go up. Belay at the 2nd yucca.Pitch 2 (35 meters; 5.10)  Continue up cracks to the roof. Protect well and commit. Pull your way around the roof to the left and continue up on delicate slab past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The pitch is mostly 5.8, but the roof and initial slab are in the 5.10 range. (You can rappel with two 60 m ropes from here and reach the ledge below.)Pitch 3 (50 meters; 5.7)  Go up past one bolt to establish in the discontinuous crack. Gain a left angling crack and continue up to a two-bolt anchor. You may want to save a #2 for the last crack.Descent: The route finishes at the Astroglide anchors. Rappel on these. 

Location

Same start as Astroglide (original), but pretty much straight up.

Protection

A number 4 and doubles from 3 down to 0.3, with some offsets if you have them. Some micro cams are also very handy. Two or three alpine draws.


Routes in Frontera