- Edit (TBD)
Description
This link provides a more logical and smooth way to climb the classic
Shock the Monkey
corner without climbing
Trash Man
(out left) and trying to manage the rope from there or set up an intermediate belay on the ledge. There is an old 1/4" bolt and other evidence that Doug Ranck and others explored this possibility but evidently didn't finish it.
Climb the first three bolts of
Toxic Substance
. At the fourth bolt, reach left to a new bolt connecting the blank face between
Toxic Substance
and the ledge system below
Shock the Monkey's
classic corner. You may want to clip the fourth bolt while making this reach and then back clean the fourth bolt. Slings or long draws may also be helpful in this section.
Make this long move left and on to the first of two ledge systems below
Shock the Monkey's
corner. A new bolt up and right of the old two bolt anchor below the corner helps the rope run more freely. Once in the corner of
Shock the Monkey
, climb the steep, right-angling corner.
Location
Start as for
Toxic Substance
on the far left of the main sector of the Dump Wall. This is a link-up of the bottom of
Toxic Substance
and into
Shock the Monkey
.
Protection
12-13 bolts.
Routes in Dump Wall
- 3Save the Monkey5.11b/cSport