Corax crack

This is a sweet hidden crack climb that protects really well. The opening uninterrupted finger crack had me giddy on the first lead. Once we cleaned it out it was just splitter jamming for 20+ feet. Super fun, I hope the few folks who bother with rumney trad head up there and check it out.

This climb had 2 distinct sections. First a really pretty left facing corner split with a perfect finger crack. Then a slightly more varied second half with some hand jams, fingers and face moves.

We belayed from the birch tree at the top and rappeled off but you could easily traverse to the bolted anchor 8 feet to the right if you prefer.

I removed a lot of loose rock, the section I climbed is clean and solid now but do take care as there could be a flake or two near by that could peel off.

Follow the fixed line in the gully on the left. Do not use the line down the middle of the death gully (that needs to be removed). At the top of that rope move left up the gully past a couple of bolted routes. Anchor to a good sized tree just down and right of the obvious pretty corner.

Finger size to #1 camalot. Anchor sling if you belay from the tree.