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Peak Mountain 3

Gold Dust

FA Sean McLane and Forest Altherr, June 2019, FFA Forest Altherr
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Easily the best route we did, this is a classic. Get on it!P1) Follow a crack left of the roof to a belay below the roof, 5.10-P2) Horizontal roof crack to a belay at a stance right of the sccop. 5.10+P3) Climb a short ways up the crack before diagonaling up and left on a slab and thin crack to a belay in a seam below bolts leading up to a roof, 5.11/+ (This pitch can be combined with pitch 2)P4) The route's crux. Follow the bolts across the slab through a roof then up and left around a techy slab. As the crack starts to pinch down pull left into a gorgeous left-facing corner, 5.12-P5) More left-facing corner requiring 3D slab moves, finishing up and right, 5.11/+P6) Take it to the shoulder below the summit block proper on a slab next to crack, 5.7Descent: At the base of the summit block, just right of the single bolt that leads to the top of the summit block, there is a bolted rap anchor. 3 raps lead to the gully on the backside of the Mineral wall, 1st Rap is about 30m to a ledge, 2nd rap is 10m to another ledge, 3rd rap is 25m to the ground. Skipping raps may result in a stuck rope. Descend the gully back to the base of the climb.More spray here if needed: seanmclane.com/30-fa-projec…

Protection

tcus to #3, extra fingers


Routes in Mineral Wall


  1. 1
    Gold Dust
    5.12-
    Alpine · Trad