Compromise

This route begins by climbing up the series of slabs on the northeast face directly under a large chimney. Once just below the easier looking chimney, traverse up and left across steepening darker slabs to a 5.7 handcrack near the wall on the southside of the steepening gully. Climb this up to the ledge directly below the west summit. From here climb the 5.7+ offwidth up to a hand traverse left(east) into the notch between the two summits. The hand traverse can be protected with a BD#3. A giant horn on the east side of the west summit tower can be slung to bring up your second. Downclimb the west summit and climb unprotected 4th class up to the east true summit from here.

This route is best approached from Tuolumne Meadows via the Lake Elizabeth Trail. Leave the trail at the lake and head up easy cross country to the ridge connecting Cockscomb and Unicorn Peak.

Cams: doubles BD#0.5-3, set of nuts, 60m rope