- Edit (TBD)
Description
Original Roughneck is a route I climbed in 2013 that had seen a prior FA. There was a two pin anchor at 100', and it appears the route finished there based on cleaning.
Start up the paper thin, right-facing flake behind a fir tree. Climb up and right connecting into a double crack system that is climbed to a roof. Pull the roof on the left, and continue up thin crack moves to the
Ruffian Arete
anchor (.10+, 110').
You can continue up to the top in 1 or 2 more pitches. P2 pulls the small roof at the anchor on the right. Climb up to a bolt at the roof, and pull through to belay 30' above (.10-), or continue up another 50' to the upper anchor (5.8).
Rap the route.
Location
Two fir trees mark the left edge of the South face. Start up a right-facing flake systems directly above the tree.
Protection
A standard rack to 2" with extra small cams. Take lots of stoppers as well.
Routes in Main Wall
- 13Original Roughneck5.10b/cTrad