- Edit (TBD)
Description
As you may have guessed, the crux is right after the bolt. How to get to the nice looking jug?
The lower crack is really fun, maybe 10a, crack runs out and it seems like the bolt is a long ways away, but ledgy holds make it pretty easy. The move past the bolt is perplexing, don't forget the holds on the right. Save some strength after "the move" because it is pumpy getting up the lip above. I had to dig out the crack with nut tool for a small cam.
2 bolts above protect the slab.
This was listed as 11a, I think it is 11b, so I give it the elusive 11- grade.
Location
next right of Loaves of Fun, left of Veins of Glory.
Protection
Single rack to #3, 3 bolts. chain anchor
I placed 2) #2 Camalots in the lower portion, it would have been nice to plug one of those in the pocket jug after the bolt.
Routes in Pearly Gates
- 22Hepped Up on Goofballs.5.11-Trad