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Description
This is a nice long pitch that packs a punch at the end. There is a little bit of everything on this one. Start off with a brief scramble to the dihedral. Sink some fingers in the corner until the dihedral ends. Walk up the ramp and clip a bolt in the broken overhang. Stem, and move past supplementing the bolt with a buried 0.5 Camalot in a slot. Move up some flared cracks towards the obvious two foot roof. Clip a bolt at the roof's lip and make some creative moves past the roof. Some fun face climbing follows till the base of a short, shallow dihedral. Clip bolts to the apex of the dihedral where things get difficult. Make some tenuous moves to gain the ledge and anchors.
Location
Go up the obvious face just right of
Dink Dink
and left of the inset dihedral which separates the route from
Hyperactive Speed
. The sharp, distinct corner at the beginning is easy to spot.
Protection
Small gear, nothing larger than a # 0.5, nuts, slings. I would sling everything until you pass the two foot roof. A 70m is recommended. Bailing off to the right on the ledge is doable with shorter ropes.
Routes in Space Balls Wall
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