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Peak Mountain 3

East Face

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Description

This route is a more serious undertaking than the (old school) 5.2 rating implies. Expect significant route finding and a lot of time spent on steep terrain. We roped up for 3 pitches on the upper face plus a short summit pitch and also did a bunch of exposed scrambling. The number of pitches required will be highly dependent on a party's skill and comfort level.

Climb slabby class 3-4+ rock to the left of the deep couloir that ends in the notch just north of the main summit, zigzagging up rubbly ledges to keep the difficulty at this level. Get out the rope when warranted - for us this coincided with the point at which we began to find rappel anchors. From near the notch continue up the ridge staying a bit left of the crest.

To descend, rappel and downclimb the route. We did four rappels from existing anchors that were well situated for our 60m rope.

Location

The route starts from near the northern end of the highest lake in the East Fork. Do an ascending north to south traverse on grassy ledges to the steep, upper East Face. Bonneville has three main summits and various others and it is difficult to tell which is the highpoint. GPS is useful but the photos I posted should also do the trick.

Protection

Standard alpine rack to #2 Camalot. 60m rope and webbing or cord for rappelling.


Routes in Mount Bonneville


  1. 1
    East Face
    5.2
    Alpine · Trad