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MapDescription
- Deez Nuts - Start on the left in a crack under an overhang, stem the dihedral to a ledge. The crux is pulling through the small roof off of the ledge. Then enjoy caressing the silky smooth chert nodule nut sack like knobs that allow you to float above the sharpness to the chains. You can continue on past the chains if you want to. The steep moves above the chains are fun with really solid jugs that are a bit sharp. There is a big ramp that leads to a ledge. The top 15 feet has a solid 5.9 move right before the chains and is out of sight of your belayer. There is a bolt at your waist to protect the move but too much slack and a soft catch may land you on the ledge.
TR Variation - Start on an arete and work into the crack that angles right and joins the dihedral for "Mom's Spaghetti". This route is very sharp and awkward through the crack.
Location
Look for the upside down Y crack behind a large boulder that looks like it would be fun to climb. (It's not).
Protection
Bolts - Chains