House of Cards

A power-endurance sprint. One of the shorter routes on the bomb shelter, but may be the most sustained, with classic, steadily escalating moves. Trades the ubiquitous sloper lockoffs of eagles rest for the technician's crisp edges and precise foot smears.Start gently up 5.11 crimping. Each move slowly builds, and tiny errors compound and snowball, giving no shelter through intricate 5.12 terrain with balance, finesse, and cool sequencing rightward. Just above, the first crux begins with desperate reaches through thin edges below the last bolt.It all culminates in a dramatic compression boulder on sweet geometric holds with the hardest single move being a shoulder rending (morpho, span) slap to gain the final clipping rail out left of the anchor. Good conditions help quite a bit for these moves in particular. The grade comes from the building fatigue on-redpoint, which will probably hit just in time to make the boulder, or even clipping the chains, a heartbreaker. A fully different energy system than the other bomb shelter routes, this one has probably been sent in less than 2 minutes before, whereas people generally will take 5-15 minutes to pace their way through the endurance oriented ones.Tough to imagine anyone resting anywhere on this thing. You can sort of choose whether to chalk or clip at certain points, but doing both could push one forearm irreversibly into meltdown.Originally rated 13b. Some key holds broke during the Summer of 2021. The crux is now quite a bit harder.  Phil Morton made quick work of the new "vintage" and uprated to 13c. 

The leftmost route at the bomb shelterGets bad runoff, needs cleaning at the start of the dry season.

6ish bolts to sport anchor. Well bolted, FA skipped clips to save energy.