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Peak Mountain 3

Burning Shoes (a.k.a. Shattered Illusions of Love)

FA James Garrett, Pete "Big Billy" Keane, and Brad England, October '98
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1 - Begin with a shoulder stand from your partner or by using a somewhat sketchy fixed pin with a broken eye hole. Continue past another fixed pin to a beautiful clean crack that arcs around forming the "C-Dunt Traverse". At the end of the arc, turn a couple roof/corners on big gear. The second of these roofs is wide, awkward and very strenuous, even if you're aiding... which you will be. Continue to the notch and a two-bolt anchor. (5.9, A1, C1+)

Pitch 2 - Begin up a crack a few feet to the left of the anchor and gain a small shelf. From here the original party nailed up a thin and soft crack to a flaring, horizontal ledge/crack and then placed a bolt on the bulging wall above. (After I placed five crappy pieces in the shelf at my feet and spent 15 minutes looking at my options for leaving the shelf, I proudly called for the 10 foot stick clip.) Pass a blown out bat hook hole and from the highest bolt, tension traverse right to the anchor. (C1+ with a stick clip, originally rated A2 though it seemed harder)

Pitch 3 - Climb the soft crack above the anchor on pins and cams passing some fixed pieces along the way. Save some small pins and a little mojo for the final moves onto the summit. (A2)

Location

30 minute hike southeast from the Naked Lady Boulder near camp.

Protection

Two sets of cams up to 4 Camalot with an extra .5 and .75.

One #5 and #6 Camalot

A decent selection of pitons less than 1".

A couple rivet hangers.

Stick Clip? (there is a blown bathook hole on pitch three)


Routes in Tower 143


  1. 1
    Burning Shoes (a.k.a. Shattered Illusions of Love)
    5.9
    Aid