- Edit (TBD)
Description
New Diversions is a fun little climb with a unique crux.
P1: Begin at the obvious right-facing crack just left of a right-facing corner near where the trail hits the wall. Climb this wide crack up to near its terminus, then step up, clip a bolt, and climb up and right across the knob-studded face. The crux involves mantling onto a huge steering-wheel shaped knob. Belay just above, on a knob near the arete, at a pin with small cams/wires to back it up. 5.10a.
P2: Continue up the thin crack and knobs until it suddenly turns wide. Struggle up this to a belay at a two bolt anchor. 5.9.
Most parties do two raps from here (possible with a single 60m rope but be careful!), but it is possible to continue to the top on easier terrain before walking off.
Protection
Single set of cams through a 4 inch piece. A shoulder-length sling.