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Peak Mountain 3

The Swiftness

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Description

Hand crack on the right side of Triton Tower. 30' of jamming and thin hands leads to a 20' traverse up and left that eventually leads to easier ground. Most of the climbing is vertical so have some energy to climb this somewhat pumpy route. Nice jams in a parallel crack and some stuff on the face for your feet and hands too. After the traverse, finish up and right at the end of the traverse on an easy ridge following 2 bolts to a bolted anchor.

This is definitely a classic crack but rarely gets done due to having to haul gear up the trail pretty much for this climb alone.

Location

Start at the base of Halcyon. This is just right of the Triton Tower roof (base of the tower). The crack is the obvious vertical hand crack that eventually traverses left.

Protection

Cams, small to medium. Mostly #.5 to #1 Camalots. A yellow alien or two may be useful. Extra .75 Camalots will not go unused. The climb takes gear very well anywhere, and has good but pumpy stances. Bring a couple of quickdraws for the last section to the anchor.