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Peak Mountain 3

Wind Shear

FA Peter Croft, Dave Nettle, Andy Puhvel, Sept 2, 2014
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Stellar new line established September 2014 that climbs between Positive Vibrations and Airstream. Many pitches are short to minimize rope drag. 4 stars all the way!

P1: 12a Power laybacking to finger crack

P2: 11c Slab - easy to link into 3

P3: 11b tech - mostly bolts

P4: 11c awesome handcrack to reachy jug and then an awesome flake

P5: 12a slab - bring your best slab technique for this awesome pitch that ends in "11a fingers." That finger crack felt quite hard for that grade!

P6: 11b slippery stemming to easier varied climbing

P7: 12a traverse - bulletproof slippery rock to a crimpy face traverse

P8: 12a "The Hanging Crack" - One of my favorite pitches. Awesome finger/hand crack to a roof crux with limited feet.

P9: 12b - Improbable looking traverse that climbs very straight forward once you initiate the moves

P10: 12a - Traverse under the roof and over the arete. Keep traverse to you hit the amazing handcrack. Climb up through the crux of Positive Vibes and belay at bolts

P11: Traverse up and left to the other side of the arete

P12: 12a stemming. Really fun stemming. Remember to head right after the high third bolt and then back left. I went up and left and while do-able, you must pull moves on less than desirable rock.

P13: You can either head straight up the bolted 11c/11d arete or escape onto PV.

P14: If you escaped onto PV - climb the last splitter 5.8 handcrack

Location

Starts on the Power Ranger start, then climbs between Positive Vibrations and Airstream, sharing several belays on both.

Protection

As per Nettle's Topo: Tiny wires, small-med wires, 2 ea tiny cams, double cams to #2 BD, 1 #3 BD, slings.