- Edit (TBD)
Description
Named not for the classic John Wayne movie or that it’s super hard, but for how insanely dirty this climb was when I first developed it. OMG, even the holds that would normally be bomber were either sandy or covered with that dusty lichen or both! When I first tried pulling the roof, grit showered my face and got into my eyes! It was a real struggle the whole way. But the route was super fun and worth spending a lot of time scraping, wire brushing, and believe it or not, using a leaf blower to get all the grit and dust off. Even the top was completely covered in moss and lichen and had to be extensively cleaned to make it safe to get to the anchors. Only days old at the time of this posting, the route is still a bit dirty, especially at the lower part. But with more activity it should prove to be better.It’s short but stout! The lower main face is crimpy and the feet below can be slippery if damp. The two piece overhang/roof is a power play and makes for an exhilarating finish to the top! The 5.9 rating is based on pulling up and out between the two roofs relying more on the left roof. If you want more of a challenge, try pulling directly out of and over the right roof.Please feel free to clean off any remaining lichen and brush off the dusty remains. Also please give your opinion on the grade. Maybe once it's cleaner and drier it will not be as stiff. Thanks!
Location
This small buttress is just right of Shark’s Tooth wall. To get to the anchors, hike up the main switchback to your right. Just about at the top, look for a trail lined with branches to the left. Follow that back and over a small rise. Go past the Short But Sweet anchors, down a skinny gully and onto the top of the Pig Pen buttress. Anchors are placed so that double length slings are perfect to get your carabiners over the edge without drag on the rope.
Protection
Top rope anchors are stainless steel bolts hangers. There is a safety tie-in anchor in the rock behind I'm Lichen It! that services both climbs (see photo).