Substance Abuse

This route follows the arete on the far left side of the upper tier. The start is complete junk and has a few loose death blocks that pose a serious threat to the belayer. Scrambling up to a choss covered ledge and building a gear anchor (#1 and #2 camalots) might be the best way to get on it. There are two hidden bolts leading to the 2 bolt anchor at the start of the arete about 70 ft from the ground (easy to spot), but that is a terrible place to belay. Unfortunately, the rock doesn't get a whole lot better for the rest of the climb, but if you got this far, at least you won't die. Pull some reachy big moves on terrible flaky rock for 60 ft. When lowering, make sure to stop at the hanging anchor, rethread the rope and continue lowering from there with a 60 m rope.

Leftmost route at the upper tier. The start is not obvious.

About 10 bolts, 1-2 hand size pieces for the start.