Southeast Face

A short, fun alpine route to a great summit - two great summits if you do the eastern spire in addition to the western spire.

COULOIR:

To get to the start of the rock climbing you need to climb the couloir between Abbot and Mills. This is most likely best done in early  season when it is still full of snow as it is very loose once it starts to melt out. The couloir is maybe 600 feet long and 40-degrees at most. Take this to the notch above the couloir and the start of the climb.

P1:  Climb up blocky terrain for about 30' heading to a couple of left facing corners. From the ledge below the right one you can either go directly up or move left with a smeary move around the corner. As noted elsewhere the left of the two left facing corners is better protected. The one on the right is more direct but protection isn't in abundance. Top out and move right to the rappel/belay station. (Cordage and rap ring around large flake) (5.6 110')

P2:  Move around spire on 4th class rock to a loose, blocky corner with a 5th class move at a slight bulge higher up. Belay at notch between western and eastern summits. (5th 80')

(BONUS PITCH: If doing the eastern spire as well do it before regular P3)

P3:  Climb the last 30' to the summit. Step up to a ledge, climb a few moves on the outer corner of the slab to the short section of crack. Throw in pro, pull up on the ledge above and in a few more easy move you're on the small, flat summit.

DESCENT:

Two rappels get you back to the notch. The couloir can be down climbed or rappelled and down climbed. There where four rappel slings with rings or carabiners when we did it.

BONUS PITCH - EASTERN SUMMIT SPIRE:

The eastern summit spire is great and well worth climbing as well. It is fun climbing and good rock. However, you would want to do it before the final pitch of the western summit as you will be rappelling off the other side of it.

From the notch move up easy rock (you can put a medium cam in the crack low on the spire) to a horizontal crack and ledge. Throw in a large cam (BD#4 or possibly #3, or equivalent) make a few easy but exposed face moves, grab a solid horn (see photo) and step up onto the tiny summit. (5.6 40')

The route starts at the notch between Mt Abbot and Mt Mills, above the couloir.

Light alpine rock rack. BD#4 for east spire. Axe and crampons for couloir. Cordage/webbing.