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Peak Mountain 3

The Black Mama

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Description

The Black Mama climbs an impressive crack system on the west side of the Palisade.

The climb is named after a nearby uranium mine that operated throughout the 1960s. FFA by Joe Mills.

P1: Climb 5.10 hands.

P2: Go up a difficult, thin hands splitter through a roof (5.12) to a roof. Punch in some small gear, then traverse left out the roof (5.11+), and then go up a left-facing corner to the belay.

P3: Climb the impressive overhanging finger and thin hands splitter. Save some #3 Camalots for a section before the anchors.

Descent: rappel the route with 2 ropes. Since P3 overhangs, take care not to get stranded out in space.

Protection

Desert rack with extra 0.75s for the crux pitch.


Routes in The Palisade