South Ridge via South Chute

A great Class 3 route, with a spectacular and intimidating finish.

Scramble up the chute, over blocks then tackle a chimney with a chockstone which is best passed on the right, then traverse northwards along the ridge until you are stopped by the smooth wall just below the summit.

The smooth wall can be traversed diagonally leftward along a foot ledge to a wide crack, then up this to the summit.

Class 3 gully on the south side of the peak. From the upper lake head over scree or snow towards the low point of the ridge (Gould Pass) just as you reach the wall you'll see a 100 foot gully/chute filled with blocks on your right.

Helmet, and short rope for the uneasy/inexperienced.

Descent:

Downclimb the route.