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Peak Mountain 3

Stand, Sit, Slide

FA Wolfe, Alexander
CREATED 
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Description

Hike to the southeast side of the tower, drink a beer, take a photo, and go home. If inclined to continue, beak up thin calcite seams, mixed with a few bolts – the rock was so shattered not even beaks or spectres would go in so trust the bolts cautiously. When the mud curtain gets too thick, aid right to a small cove. Continue tension traversing right, or if your feet don't give away, free climb to a crack and contemplate your future. Continue traversing up and right through really thick mud (A3?). It's best to dig 8 inches down to the fractured rocks and then drive some nails home, maybe two nails and equalize them. I'm sure the next major rainstorm will cover up the existing "steps." Rinse and repeat until at the top. After the belly flop mantle, shit your pants – don't worry, no one will notice since you're already covered in mud. It's best to bring some extra nails to rebuild the 4 nail anchor as the entire summit area is mud

Protection

Selection of #2-3 peckers, spectres. I found DMM Terrier spectres extremely useful. A single set of cams (BD C4 #0.75-4). Many D-nails (9-inch), tie-offs, and an ice tool with adze for excavating nail placements.


Routes in Blue Castle


  1. 1
    Stand, Sit, Slide
    5.7
    Trad · Aid